Buenos Aires is beautiful city of green spaces and white, colonial buildings and, while I can only draw on a couple of days worth of evidence, it is clearly a place to have fun. Here follows the initial markontour guide, hopefully to be substantially updated at some point:
I spent a wonderful few hours here, sitting in the afternoon sun, reading, strumming my little guitarlele, watching the boats in the sea and straining to see Uraguay. And then there were the views back to Buenos Aires as the sun went down on the way home (see above). Hermoso!
Described by my Time Out guide as “unquestionably Buenos Aires’ greatest cultural monument”, Teatro Colon is certainly something to behold and the acoustics for the performance of the Orquestra Filarmonica de Buenos Aires, were likewise as fantastic as promised.
My i-phone pictures couldn’t capture the true granduer of the Teatro’s seven curving balconies, and pastel painted domed ceiling, but I think you can just about make out that about half the audience get to enjoy concerts from private boxes.
In every city I visit I always make an effort to visit the planetarium, a record shop, a live music venue, and a gallery with the best local art. On this trip I only managed two out of four and I really wish I had hired a bike to travel to the Museo de Belles Artes, because after an hour and half of walking in the midday sun I needed food rather than great paintings by the time I arrived. Nevertheless, I enjoyed a quick perusal of the three exhibition halls displaying nineteenth century Argentinian art. Candido Lopez’s series of six paintings of the 1891 Battalla de Curupayti was a highlight, along with Angel Della Valle’s dramatic La Vuelta del Malon. I really needed a guide book to explain whether the half naked European woman was being rescued or kidnapped by a company of native American horesemen! “Must learn Spanish” has gone on my to-do list.
Mott, El Salvador by Armenia Street
Located in what seemed to be the fairly upmarket Palermo Soho district, Mott is a new-ish restuarant split over two levels and owned by an Argentinian who has just returned from years living in Europe. In this steak obsessed country I was happy to enjoy a delicious pumpkin risotto here, along with the usual great Malbec, and a local spirit served with grapefruit that I forget the name of, but which was provided when I asked for the Argentinian version of caipirinha.
Thelonius, Palermo Soho
We thought this long, thin jazz bar was a little serious on arrival – everyone seated and hushed silence during breaks between songs – but it soon livened up and the mojitos were impressive.